Jon came to me with a need for more clearance under his jeep. After looking at the beat up sheetmetal skidplate that was under his jeep we quickly came up with plan for more beef!
I fabricated two crossmembers and redid the complex stock jeep t-case mount. The crossmembers are structural and will support the trans and t-case even with the skidplate removed which makes maintanence easier. The skidplate is 1/4″ thick steel and is also structural. Combined the crossmembers and skidplate should be able to take quite a hit!
Jon also wanted an engine skidplate to protect the oil pan and trans pan. A front mount was fabricated off the engine mounts and another 1/4″ skidplate welded together. I welded some 3/16″ strap to the bottom of the skid for extra support.
Jon was also worried about the stock rubicon air lockers and rightly so with them being mounted directly on the allread bent stock skidplate. Now the air lockers are mounted on top of the rear crossmember 1.5″ away from the skid. The skid plate also wraps around the back to further protect the lockers and plumbing from rocks and trail debris.
How do you get a highsteer arm bolted onto a steering knuckle that never had provisions for anything to be bolted on the top of it? You get creative and machine your own mount.
Joe came to me and needed a way to get a steering arm on top of his superduty D60 steering knuckle. There are no bolt holes on top and in fact its just a raw casting thats not even flat. After some trial and error with cardstock templates I came up with a plan to work around the existing brake caliper mount web thats in the way and finalized the drawings.
I then set about making a fixture to hold the knuckle upright so I could mill the top perpendicular to the wheel bearing hub. I drilled the face of the fixture with two different patterns so I would be able to do left and right knuckles.
I started out by making the arm. It was machined out of 1018 cold roll bar stock, 1″ thick. The step in the arm and knuckle as well as the slot for the brake caliper mount web allow the arm to be “keyed” to the knuckle and no tappered cone washers are needed. After the arm was done I pressed the ball joints out of the knuckle and mounted it to the fixture on the milling machine. Quite a bit had to be cut off the knuckle since every surface is at an odd angle and the top needs to be flat. Six holes were drilled and tapped for 1/2-20 bolts. Due to the proximity of the brake caliper mount web, grade 8 socket head cap screws were used.
While it was a bit of work, this was a fun project and a good challenge!